中华之美丛书：中国服饰（英） pdf snb 115盘 kindle 在线 下载 pmlz mobi

“中华之美”丛书围绕中华优秀传统文化这一主题，择取其中15个专题分别加以介绍。这15个专题，包括以思想、智慧、艺术为主的“无形遗产”，以工艺、器物为主的“有形遗产”，以衣食住行乐为主的“民俗生活”，它们精心构架，有机结合，勾勒出中国文化的一个总体面貌，并反映出“中华文化独一无二的理念、智慧、气度、神韵”。

中国人习惯把日常生活概括为“衣食住行”，服饰排在了*位，可见它在生活中的重要位置。在这个历史悠久的衣冠大国，从古至今，伴随着民族间的相互融合和东西方文化的交流，服饰的样式和穿着习俗始终在不断演变。几乎从服饰出现的那天起，人们的社会身份、生活习俗、审美情趣，以及种种文化观念就已融入其中了。服饰的面貌是社会历史风貌*直观、写实的反映，从这个意义上说，服饰的历史也是一部生动的文明发展史。

In the Chinese way of describing the necessities of life, clothing ranks at the top of “clothing, food, shelter and means of travel”, which shows its important place in life. In this country with a long history of garments and ornaments, with integration of ethnic groups and cultural exchange between the East and West, clothing styles and customs have been evolving since ancient times. Almost from the day when clothes emerged, people’s social status, living customs, aesthetical tastes and various cultural concepts were integrated into them. Clothes are the most straightforward and realistic reflection of social and historical scenes. In this sense, the clothing history is also a vivid history of the development of civilization.

Foreword From Barbarism to Monarchy From Ancient “One-piece Dresses” to Casual Garments and Gowns Incredible Silk Imperial Clothes and Clothing System Martial Attire Reformer – King Wuling of Zhao Drifting Loose Clothes and Broad Bands Extremely Gorgeous Tang SuitsElegant and Comfortable Casual Clothes Cultural Aggregation – Official Robes End of Monarchy and Introduction of Western Clothes to the East Cutting Plaits and Releasing Feet Coexistence of Long Gowns and Western-style Clothes Improved Cheongsams Combining Chinese and Western Features Rapidly Changing Modern Clothes Innovative Workers’ Clothes and Farmers’ Clothes Service Dresses Worn by Almost All People Bell-bottoms and Sunglasses Entered China First Jean Clothes Swept across China Lingering Bohemian Style “Anti-normal” Clothes Popular for a While Exposing Clothes Subverted Confucian Thoughts Amazing Chinese Shoes and Diversified Footwear Cherished Han Clothes Youths Following Trends of Fashion without Looking Back Diversified Ethnic Clothes Minority Ethnic Groups’ Exotic Clothes Numerous Legends about Ethnic Clothes Special Techniques of Making Ethnic Clothes Where Do Primitive Clothes Go in the Internet Age? 

华梅，天津师范大学教授，华梅服饰文化学研究所所长，原美术与设计学院院长。1983年起从事中国服装史教学，1994年创建服饰文化学新学科。主持三项社科基金和*人文项目，主讲精品资源共享课《中西服装史》。至今出版专著56部，代表著作有《人类服饰文化学》《服饰与中国文化》《中国服装史》《西方服装史》《服装美学》等。多部著作被翻译成英文、法文、西班牙文、日文、韩文、阿拉伯文等在国外发行。先后应邀为日本奈良国立女子大学、法国里昂国立时装设计大学、巴黎法兰西时装学院、新西兰服装设计研究院、泰国蓝实大学等讲授中国服饰文化。

Hua Mei, professor at Tianjin Normal University, the head of the Hua Mei Clothing Ornament Culturology Study Institute and the former dean of the College of Arts and Design. She began to teach the Chinese clothing history in 1983, established the new discipline of clothing ornament culturology study in 1994, took charge of three national cultural projects of the Social Science Fund and the Ministry of Education, and was the main lecturer for the national classic resource sharing course Chinese and Western Clothing History. Now she has published 56 monographs. Her representative works are Human Costume and Ornament Culturology, Clothing Ornaments and Chinese Culture, Chinese Clothing History, Western Clothing History and Clothing Aesthetics. Many of them have been translated into English, French, Spanish, Japanese, Korean and Arabic and published abroad. She was invited to teach China’s clothing ornament culture at Nara Women’s University in Japan, University of Fashion in Lyon, France, Institute of France in Paris, New Zealand Academy of Fashion Design and Rangsit University in Thailand.

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前言

Chinese clothing culture can be traced back to the primitive society of the late Paleolithic Period. Archaeologists found that about 20,000 years ago, primitive people who lived near today’s Zhoukoudian, Beijing already wore ornaments. The white small stone beads, yellowish green cobbles, animal teeth, blood clams, fish bones and bird canals with furrows unearthed there areexquisitely pierced, and traces of hematite powder remain on hole walls. According to the placeswhere it is scattered, experts estimate they are ornaments on people’s necks. Back then, people wore ornaments not just for beauty of course. More importantly, they wore them to pray for blessings and ward off evil spirits. Long round openings still remain on the unearthed bone needles, which shows ancient people of that period invented the technique of sewing animal hide with needles.In Qinghai Province in the west of China, painted pottery basins made more than 5,000 years ago were unearthed. The patterns on these pottery basins look like dances imitating hunting. Dancers drawn on some painted pottery basins wear plait ornaments on their heads and tail ornaments hanging around their waists, and dancers on some basins wear round skirts. Another painted pottery bottle unearthed in Gansu attracts people’s curious attention – its shape is like a naughty girl with short hair on the forehead above the eyebrows, shoulder-length hair on the back of the head, clearly discernable facial features and continuous patterns below the neck consisting of three layers of oblique lines and arc lines, triangles, etc. Perhaps the person who made this pottery bottle was a real and lovely girl, and the patterns depict the beautiful wedding gown worn by her.